What Is the Height of the Ground on a Blue Ox Tow Base on a Honda 2014
anyway, I'm think of dropping 6" and having a 4" difference.
for those of you that have come to the same conclusion, what difference in height between hitch and base plate have you successfully towed with? was there a noticable tradeoff?
I'm really interested in hearing from someone who has done it.
thanks!
Rob & Jean
98 Dutch Star Diesel Pusher ..07 Honda CRV AWD
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Alan & Sandy Hepburn driving a 2007 Fleetwood Bounder 35E on a Workhorse chassis - Proud to be a Blue Star Family!
Good Sam Member #566004
Fly Boy
targaboat wrote:
To the OP, we are refering to the tow bar being nearly level not the tow bar. You are referring to the base plate and the hitch. 10 inches is really extreme and you would have to have really high hitch or a very small car. Therefore I am wondering if we are on the same page here.
?. I have the same situation (10" difference)with my Bounder and Honda Fit. I use a 6" drop hitch. Roadmaster installer's advice was to go with the 6" drop adapter vs 8". Good luck!
2005 Fleetwood Bounder 32W 8.1.
2009 Honda Fit Sport
Alan_Hepburn wrote:
The best person to answer this question is the manufacturer of your tow bar. Blue Ox says for MY tow bar it needs to be within 4" of level.
Correct, that's what mine states also, otherwise you risk doing some serious damage to the hitch components/assembly.
Eric
2014 Enterra 314RES (Cruiser RV) TT, Equal-i-zer 12K, Honda 2000 Genny
2022 Ford F-150 Sport 4X4
Alan_Hepburn wrote:
The best person to answer this question is the manufacturer of your tow bar. Blue Ox says for MY tow bar it needs to be within 4" of level.
mine is a blue ox, sounds like I just get into spec with a 6" drop
thanks!
targaboat wrote:
To the OP, we are refering to the tow bar being nearly level not the tow bar. You are referring to the base plate and the hitch. 10 inches is really extreme and you would have to have really high hitch or a very small car. Therefore I am wondering if we are on the same page here.
sorry for confusing words
my hitch is 25" off the ground
where my tow bar connects to the baseplate is 15" off the ground
for the tow bar to be level, I would need to drop 10"
I'm gonna go with 6" drop to get just within the 4" spec
Fred
JFG wrote:
The toad should never be below the mh... blue-ox says toad can be 4" higher than mh but has "0" tolerance the other way. Think about it this way... everytime you start pulling, you will be lifting the front end of the toad.
The following is from Etrailer in answer to the question.
Expert Reply:
The specifications for the Roadmaster Falcon 2, part # RM-520 have not changed. You can be either 3 inches high or 4 inches low. (from the center pin)
Good luck.
JFG wrote:
The toad should never be below the mh... blue-ox says toad can be 4" higher than mh but has "0" tolerance the other way. Think about it this way... everytime you start pulling, you will be lifting the front end of the toad.
Actually mine states the other way around; the toad can be lower but never higher.
I can't recall ever seeing a toad that is higher when hitched, but then again, maybe I never noticed.
When the tow bar is hooked to both vehicles and they are ON LEVEL GROUND, the tow bar should be theoretically level or slightly higher on the tow vehicle's end. I thought 0-2" was the target range and I would make every effort come as close to that as possible but compromise nearer the 2" end if necessary.
If the bar is sloped that the TV's end is lower, the toad may have a tendency to roll above the tow vehicle's connection--that's a bad, bad thing.
Alan_Hepburn wrote:
The best person to answer this question is the manufacturer of your tow bar. Blue Ox says for MY tow bar it needs to be within 4" of level.
x2
2006 Winnebago Outlook 29B E-450.
2012 Honda CR-V AWD
Blue Ox Aventa LX tow bar and Brake Buddy Vantage.
traxtermax wrote:
As I understand it, and maybe another way to look at it is:
When the tow bar is hooked to both vehicles and they are ON LEVEL GROUND, the tow bar should be theoretically level or slightly higher on the tow vehicle's end. I thought 0-2" was the target range and I would make every effort come as close to that as possible but compromise nearer the 2" end if necessary.
If the bar is sloped that the TV's end is lower, the toad may have a tendency to roll above the tow vehicle's connection--that's a bad, bad thing.
Here's a quote from the Blue Ox online tech tips;
Blue Ox's recommendation is that the receiver hitch of the motorhome should never be more than 4 inches higher than the baseplate attachment points. Four inches or less keeps the tow bar level with the ground or slightly angled up towards the coach from the car. The tow bar should never be angled "up" towards the car from the coach.
Here's a link to all of the Blue Ox Tech tips;
http://www.blueox.us/instruction/towingphysics101.htm
roam1 wrote:
I've read that the hitch and the tow bar base plate should be level. My hitch on my A is 10" higher than the base plate connection on the toad. I just can't see dropping 10". I have a bit of an overhang and figure the hitch is 25" off the ground for a reason.......those big scrapes in driveways and gas stations......
anyway, I'm think of dropping 6" and having a 4" difference.
for those of you that have come to the same conclusion, what difference in height between hitch and base plate have you successfully towed with? was there a noticable tradeoff?
I'm really interested in hearing from someone who has done it.
thanks!
Pirate wrote:
roam1 wrote:
I've read that the hitch and the tow bar base plate should be level. My hitch on my A is 10" higher than the base plate connection on the toad. I just can't see dropping 10". I have a bit of an overhang and figure the hitch is 25" off the ground for a reason.......those big scrapes in driveways and gas stations......
anyway, I'm think of dropping 6" and having a 4" difference.
for those of you that have come to the same conclusion, what difference in height between hitch and base plate have you successfully towed with? was there a noticable tradeoff?
I'm really interested in hearing from someone who has done it.
thanks!
Perhaps the reason your hitch is 25" off the ground is because the builder was too lazy to level the unit with spacers after building. My unit was 3" lower toward the front. This kept the water always running toward the front. I had the local truck joint level the unit out with spacers. They did a pretty good job. For your situation, keep in mind that you won't gain any rear clearance if you put a 6" drop receiver in. You will end up even longer and at least 6" lower. You will drag one way or another if you are not careful. The raised rear ends are great for extra clearance with long overhangs, which I have too, only if you don't have all the towing junk hanging off the back too.
yes, my plan to drop the minimum distance and still be in spec was to maximize the height distance to the "hitch/tow gear" and minimize my chances of adding new skids in driveways with dips!
found a 6" drop hitch in the garage from 2 motorhomes ago, I'm good to go!
PackerBacker wrote:
traxtermax wrote:
As I understand it, and maybe another way to look at it is:
When the tow bar is hooked to both vehicles and they are ON LEVEL GROUND, the tow bar should be theoretically level or slightly higher on the tow vehicle's end. I thought 0-2" was the target range and I would make every effort come as close to that as possible but compromise nearer the 2" end if necessary.
If the bar is sloped that the TV's end is lower, the toad may have a tendency to roll above the tow vehicle's connection--that's a bad, bad thing.
Here's a quote from the Blue Ox online tech tips;
Blue Ox's recommendation is that the receiver hitch of the motorhome should never be more than 4 inches higher than the baseplate attachment points. Four inches or less keeps the tow bar level with the ground or slightly angled up towards the coach from the car. The tow bar should never be angled "up" towards the car from the coach.
Here's a link to all of the Blue Ox Tech tips;
http://www.blueox.us/instruction/towingphysics101.htm
Didn't we essentially say the same thing?
Or maybe I have to re-read it again.
traxtermax wrote:
PackerBacker wrote:
traxtermax wrote:
As I understand it, and maybe another way to look at it is:
When the tow bar is hooked to both vehicles and they are ON LEVEL GROUND, the tow bar should be theoretically level or slightly higher on the tow vehicle's end. I thought 0-2" was the target range and I would make every effort come as close to that as possible but compromise nearer the 2" end if necessary.
If the bar is sloped that the TV's end is lower, the toad may have a tendency to roll above the tow vehicle's connection--that's a bad, bad thing.
Here's a quote from the Blue Ox online tech tips;
Blue Ox's recommendation is that the receiver hitch of the motorhome should never be more than 4 inches higher than the baseplate attachment points. Four inches or less keeps the tow bar level with the ground or slightly angled up towards the coach from the car. The tow bar should never be angled "up" towards the car from the coach.
Here's a link to all of the Blue Ox Tech tips;
http://www.blueox.us/instruction/towingphysics101.htm
Didn't we essentially say the same thing?
Or maybe I have to re-read it again.
I re-read your's and you 100% are correct. I read your 'TV' text as 'towed vehicle', my bad.
I must have been still thinking of what JFG wrote prior to your post.
He stated quote "The toad should never be below the mh... blue-ox says toad can be 4" higher than mh but has "0" tolerance the other way. Think about it this way... everytime you start pulling, you will be lifting the front end of the toad." This is definitely not what Blue Ox recommends.
... Eric
PackerBacker wrote:
I re-read your's and you 100% are correct. I read your 'TV' text as 'towed vehicle', my bad.
I must have been still thinking of what JFG wrote prior to your post.
He stated quote "The toad should never be below the mh... blue-ox says toad can be 4" higher than mh but has "0" tolerance the other way. Think about it this way... everytime you start pulling, you will be lifting the front end of the toad." This is definitely not what Blue Ox recommends.
... Eric
This is why I railed against abbreviations in the past and I try not to use them; now, I finally succumbed and used "TV" and unwittengly illustrated why I hate them. They can be confusing and "make for slower reading".
I still have to be careful many places or I will drag. It's a pain, but a person has to do what they have to do.
Source: https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24647642/print/true.cfm
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